A Jug of Wine, a Loaf of Bread — and a Leg of Mutton

Omar Khayyám · d. 1131 Edward FitzGerald · 1859–1889 Persian → English

The most quoted line in English “Persian” poetry was a second thought — and it is two Khayyám quatrains welded into one. Where the Persian names a thigh of mutton, the English keeps a Book of Verses.

Almost everyone can finish the line. A Jug of Wine, a Loaf of Bread—and Thou. It is on tea-towels and tattoos, quoted by people who have never heard of Omar Khayyám and could not name the man who actually wrote the English — Edward FitzGerald, a reclusive Suffolk gentleman whose 1859 pamphlet sold nothing, was remaindered to a penny box, and then, discovered there by Rossetti and Swinburne, became one of the most reprinted poems in the language.

Two quiet facts hide behind the line's fame. The first: FitzGerald never stopped rewriting it. Across five editions and thirty years the stanza kept moving — a loaf became a book, a flask became a jug, a statement became an exclamation. The version everyone quotes is not the one he first published. The second, and stranger: the stanza is not a translation of a Khayyám quatrain at all. It is two quatrains fused — and in the seam between them, a leg of mutton went missing.

Instrument I — the restless stanza
FitzGerald, source ↗

Step the slider and the loaf migrates. In 1859 the provisions are a Loaf of Bread, a Flask of Wine, and a Book of Verse; the close is a flat statement, “And Wilderness is Paradise enow.” The 1868 printing shrinks the loaf to “a little Bread” and flips the ending to the subjunctive cry we know — “Oh, Wilderness were Paradise enow!” Only in the 1872 third edition does the famous rearrangement land: the Book leaps to the first line as “A Book of Verses,” the Loaf drops to the second, the Flask becomes a Jug — and there it froze, unchanged through the fourth and fifth. The single most-quoted line in the poem is FitzGerald's third try.

Two poems, one stanza

To ask where the stanza came from is to open the second surprise. In 1899 the polymath Edward Heron-Allen did something nobody had: he laid FitzGerald's quatrains beside the actual Persian manuscripts FitzGerald owned and worked from, and traced each English stanza back to its source. Against this one he wrote a sentence that quietly dismantles the idea that it is a translation at all:

“This pair of quatrains must be considered together. They owe their origin to the following ” — and he prints two Persian quatrains, not one.

FitzGerald had tessellated — his own word for the method — welding two of Khayyám's quatrains into a single English one. Instrument II lays the seam open.

Instrument II — the fusion, and what fell out of the seamtap a word
Source A · Khayyám O.155
Source B · Khayyám O.149
FitzGerald, 1872–1889 · the fusion

Everything in FitzGerald's stanza is present in one of the two Persian quatrains — the bread and wine and the “thou and I in the wilderness” sit in both; the Book of Verses is lifted whole from the second (O.149, “a flask of ruby wine and a book of verses”). Only two things do not survive the crossing. The thigh of mutton of the first quatrain is simply left behind. And the boast that a picnic could beat any sultan is lifted into a different key: FitzGerald's wilderness is not merely better than a king's throne — it “were Paradise enow.” The worldly comparison becomes a theological one; the roast meat becomes a book of poems. A sensualist's afternoon is quietly turned into an aesthete's.

Is the missing mutton FitzGerald's private squeamishness, or does the Persian really insist on it? The venue's method is to lay the other hands down and count. Instrument III sets FitzGerald beside five independent translators who worked from the same Persian.

Instrument III — who kept the meat
sort

Five hands, five decades, three languages — and the leg of mutton stands in every one but FitzGerald's. Nicolas roasts a gigot de mouton; Whinfield serves a “mutton chine”; Payne drops a “pestle of mutton” into the reader's lap; McCarthy, in plain prose, sets down “a wheaten loaf, flesh, and a flagon of wine.” They keep the tulip-cheeked beloved too, whom FitzGerald compresses to a single pronoun, Thou. The version that conquered English is the one that reads least like its original — and that is not an accident of skill. FitzGerald knew Persian; he had studied it with Edward Cowell, who sent him the manuscripts. He was not failing to be faithful. He was choosing not to be.

The live sparrow

FitzGerald left his own defence, in a letter to Cowell the year the first edition appeared. It is the manifesto of every free translator since:

“But at all Cost, a Thing must live: with a transfusion of one's own worse Life if one can't retain the Original's better. Better a live Sparrow than a stuffed Eagle.

That is the honest heart of it. FitzGerald's Rubáiyát is a live sparrow — a genuinely new English poem that happens to have been struck from Persian flint. It gave the language “the Moving Finger writes,” “a Loaf of Bread—and Thou,” “the Bird of Time,” lines that live where a faithful crib would have died in a footnote. The point of laying it against the mutton is not to convict him. It is to see, exactly, what a beloved translation is made of: not the meaning carried across intact, but a second poem, built from the pieces, with some of the freight left standing on the far platform. The eagle in the museum still has its thigh of mutton. The sparrow flew without it.

How we know — sources & method

FitzGerald's five editions. Every line of the stanza is transcribed verbatim. The first edition (1859, quatrain XI) is from the Project Gutenberg variorum (EBook 35260, cross-checked against EBook 246); the second (1868), third (1872), fourth (1879) and fifth (1889) editions, all quatrain XII, are from the Wikisource transcriptions of each edition, read from the raw wikitext. The “words changed” count in Instrument I is computed in-browser (a token diff of each edition against the 1859 text), not asserted; punctuation and capitalisation are preserved as printed (the em-dashes are FitzGerald's).

The Persian, and its two sources. The banner quatrain is quatrain 175 of the standard Ganjoor text; the transliteration and word-gloss are this page's editorial crib. The claim that FitzGerald's stanza fuses two Persian quatrains — O.155 (the mutton) and O.149 (the book of verses) — is not ours: it is Edward Heron-Allen's, from Edward FitzGerald's Rubá'iyát of Omar Khayyám with Their Original Persian Sources (Quaritch, 1899), which prints both Persian originals under the heading “XI. & XII.” with the sentence quoted above, and his literal English of each, read verbatim from the Internet Archive scan of the 1899 first edition. His slightly earlier literal of O.155 (“that would be a joy to which no sultan can set bounds”) is in the 1898 Bodleian facsimile; the two renderings differ in wording, not in sense. Heron-Allen's own concordance line for O.155 (“W. 479, N. 448, V. 749”) is what ties the rival translators below to this exact quatrain.

The rival hands. All are independent verse or prose translations from the Persian, not paraphrases of FitzGerald, each transcribed verbatim and linked on its row: J. B. Nicolas (1867, French, q. 448), E. H. Whinfield (1883, q. 479), Justin Huntly McCarthy (prose, 1889, unnumbered), and John Payne (1898, q. 749). Heron-Allen's own literal is included as the sixth, plainest witness. The “kept the meat?” tally reads the presence of a mutton-word in each quoted text.

FitzGerald's credo. “Better a live Sparrow than a stuffed Eagle” is from his letter to E. B. Cowell, 1859, in the Letters of Edward FitzGerald (Gutenberg 20539), quoted with his capitalisation. That he studied Persian under Cowell, who supplied the Ouseley (Bodleian) and Calcutta manuscripts, is standard biography.

The honest edges. Khayyám's text is famously unstable — thousands of quatrains have been attributed to him and few can be firmly ascribed — so “the original” is itself plural; this page shows one standard witness (Ganjoor) beside the manuscript readings Heron-Allen printed, and the two differ (Ganjoor's third line has a tulip-cheeked beloved in a garden where the Bodleian has thou and I in the wilderness — the reading FitzGerald followed). The claim that FitzGerald “aestheticised” the poem — meat into art, sultan into Paradise — is offered as this page's reading, and labelled as such; the substitutions themselves are plain matters of the quoted text. “Tessellated” is FitzGerald's documented word for combining quatrains. No claim is made that FitzGerald mistranslated: the whole point is that he translated freely, on purpose, and said so.

Type. Persian set in a self-hosted 13 KB subset of Noto Naskh Arabic (SIL Open Font License), only the glyphs this page uses, with Arabic shaping preserved; Latin in Fraunces and Martian Mono (both OFL). No third-party requests; everything is served first-party.

The venue

The twenty-ninth entry of the Translation-Criticism Venue — and its first on a translation whose fame rests on its infidelity. Its nearest kin: The Snows of Yesteryear (where a translation enriched English — Rossetti coining “yesteryear” for Villon's antan), Listen to the Reed (Rumi across his English carriers, the venue's other Persian object), The First Word Is Rage and The Colour of the Sea (Homer lined up across his translators — there too the phrase everyone quotes was coined by a translator, not the poet).

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